PARADOXICAL

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Thursday, February 26, 2026

 

Memories of EDSA from a Thousand MRT Rides

 (๐˜›๐˜ฉ๐˜ฆ ๐˜ง๐˜ฐ๐˜ญ๐˜ญ๐˜ฐ๐˜ธ๐˜ช๐˜ฏ๐˜จ ๐˜ช๐˜ด ๐˜ข ๐˜ณ๐˜ฆ๐˜ท๐˜ช๐˜ด๐˜ฆ๐˜ฅ ๐˜ต๐˜ฆ๐˜น๐˜ต ๐˜ง๐˜ณ๐˜ฐ๐˜ฎ ๐˜ฎ๐˜บ ๐˜ข๐˜ณ๐˜ค๐˜ฉ๐˜ช๐˜ท๐˜ฆ๐˜ด. ๐˜ˆ๐˜ต ๐˜ต๐˜ฉ๐˜ฆ ๐˜ต๐˜ช๐˜ฎ๐˜ฆ ๐˜ ๐˜ธ๐˜ณ๐˜ฐ๐˜ต๐˜ฆ ๐˜ต๐˜ฉ๐˜ฆ ๐˜ฐ๐˜ณ๐˜ช๐˜จ๐˜ช๐˜ฏ๐˜ข๐˜ญ ๐˜ท๐˜ฆ๐˜ณ๐˜ด๐˜ช๐˜ฐ๐˜ฏ ๐˜ฐ๐˜ง ๐˜ต๐˜ฉ๐˜ช๐˜ด ๐˜ฆ๐˜ด๐˜ด๐˜ข๐˜บ, ๐˜ ๐˜ฏ๐˜ฐ๐˜ต๐˜ช๐˜ค๐˜ฆ๐˜ฅ ๐˜ต๐˜ฉ๐˜ข๐˜ต ๐˜ฏ๐˜ฐ๐˜ฃ๐˜ฐ๐˜ฅ๐˜บ ๐˜ฉ๐˜ข๐˜ฅ ๐˜ฆ๐˜ท๐˜ฆ๐˜ณ ๐˜ธ๐˜ณ๐˜ช๐˜ต๐˜ต๐˜ฆ๐˜ฏ ๐˜ข๐˜ฃ๐˜ฐ๐˜ถ๐˜ต ๐˜Œ๐˜‹๐˜š๐˜ˆ in ๐˜ต๐˜ณ๐˜ข๐˜ท๐˜ฆ๐˜ญ๐˜ฐ๐˜จ๐˜ถ๐˜ฆ form ๐˜ง๐˜ณ๐˜ฐ๐˜ฎ ๐˜ข ๐˜—๐˜–๐˜ ๐˜ฐ๐˜ง ๐˜ข ๐˜ญ๐˜ฐ๐˜ธ๐˜ญ๐˜บ ๐˜ค๐˜ฐ๐˜ฎ๐˜ฎ๐˜ถ๐˜ต๐˜ฆ๐˜ณโ€”maybe ๐˜ข ๐˜ณ๐˜ฆ๐˜ง๐˜ญ๐˜ฆ๐˜ค๐˜ต๐˜ช๐˜ฐ๐˜ฏ ๐˜ฐ๐˜ง ๐˜”๐˜ข๐˜ฏ๐˜ช๐˜ญ๐˜ข's ๐˜ฎ๐˜ข๐˜ด๐˜ด ๐˜ฎ๐˜ฆ๐˜ฅ๐˜ช๐˜ข ๐˜ฑ๐˜ณ๐˜ฆ๐˜ง๐˜ฆ๐˜ณ๐˜ฆ๐˜ฏ๐˜ค๐˜ฆ๐˜ด ๐˜ข๐˜ต ๐˜ต๐˜ฉ๐˜ฆ ๐˜ต๐˜ช๐˜ฎ๐˜ฆ, ๐˜ข๐˜ฏ๐˜ฅ ๐˜ด๐˜ฐ ๐˜ ๐˜ต๐˜ฉ๐˜ฐ๐˜ถ๐˜จ๐˜ฉ๐˜ต ๐˜ฐ๐˜ง ๐˜ฅ๐˜ฐ๐˜ช๐˜ฏ๐˜จ ๐˜ช๐˜ต.)


Memories of EDSA from a Thousand MRT Rides

The first time I took the MRT, I felt I had somehow been spirited out of the danged P.I. All that gleaming metal, that telling scent of newly manufactured rubber, those squeaky escalatorsโ€”everything shimmered with a kind of improbable newness. It was like taking a brand-new car out for a test drive, a novelty that hums in your bloodstream long after the engine has been turned off. I remember feeling like the robot in "Short Circuit," freshly unboxed into the great wide open, overwhelmed by stimulus, capable only of exclaiming, โ€œInput! Input!โ€ as his digital eyes gulped down the world. That was me, standing there on the platform, recording everything in sight as if afraid the vision might vanish.

After that initiation, I seldom took the MRT. There was no pressing needโ€”except on those rare days when I had to be in Cubao from Ayala in what felt like split seconds. Years later, when I left the comfort zone of Makati and found employment in faraway Quezon City, the train ceased to be an occasional convenience and became a daily ritual. Becoming a regular meant becoming, in some quiet, unconfessed way, a dependent. Twice a day, out of sheer necessity, I surrendered myself to its rhythm. And in doing so, I was forced to regard the experience anew.

The two-way ride soon lost its novelty. It hardened into familiarity, and familiarity, as they say, is the breeding ground of contempt. I fully expected my old, contemptuous self to surface. For a born pessimist, that would have been the logical progression. Yet strangely, after two months of five-day-a-week commuting, I could not muster the disdain. Instead, the ride became a small, improbable blessingโ€”a breath of fresh air in my otherwise unglamorous existence as a commuter.

Each day I stepped into coach after coach carrying a cocktail of clashing, sometimes cryptic feelings. Yet the aftertaste was always delicate. There was nostalgia, for one thing. I personally knew the PR man tasked to handle the public affairs side of that monstrous undertaking when this behemoth was still a blueprint and a prayer. His name was Tony Vasquez. I remember how we, the long-suffering users of EDSA, endured monthsโ€”yearsโ€”of dust, detours, and traffic-induced despair. We told ourselves, half in jest and half in threat: It better be darned serviceable, or thereโ€™d be hell to pay.

And then there it wasโ€”on that battered corner of EDSA at Pasay Road (now Arnaiz Avenue)โ€”a giant billboard rising like a peace offering: โ€œCubao to Makati in 15 minutes!โ€ It featured a generic, street-smart construction worker as poster boy, neon lights blinking reassurances into the night: โ€œSafety First!โ€ โ€œPlease bear with us.โ€ โ€œYour taxes are working for you.โ€ Iโ€™m not entirely sure which line did the trick, but the campaign went on to earn international recognition in Finland a year or so later. My friend must have smiled a private, vindicated smile.

Far from inspiring contempt, the giant, er, caterpillar ride became something I regarded with fondnessโ€”the way one might cherish an extended ride on a roller coaster in Enchanted Kingdom, our own humble Disneyland in Sta. Rosa. Sometimes I would imagine they might as well install a 360-degree loop somewhere over Magallanes, overlooking the Skyway, or at Cubao where it intersects with LRT-2. To complete the carnival, they could add horror trains at Buendia and Ayalaโ€”the stations that dip into tunnels, our closest approximation to a subway. For someone prone to exquisitely pompous thoughts and spectacularly implausible scenarios, the MRT provides a most welcome theater.

It complicates my embarrassingly simple life even as it transports me efficiently from point A to point B. I find myself paraphrasing Pico Iyerโ€”โ€œTo travel is to taste hardshipโ€โ€”while half-expecting someone to shout โ€œEmergency!โ€ into the compressed air. At other times, I soundtrack the entire stretch of EDSA with techno or punk rock from my brotherโ€™s iPod, testing how rhythm alters perception. And in the midst of meditating on the fate of nations, I am forced into the most pedestrian of multitasking: wedged between a seatmate coughing nonstop and reeking of freshly pounded garlic, and the exquisite dilemma of where exactly to rest my eyes so as not to intrude upon the geography of strangersโ€™ knees. There is unpredictability within the ritual, and it is this that keeps boredom at bay.

As the train glides along with almost clockwork regularity, the window becomes a moving frame through which the city reveals its contradictions. You begin to notice things you had long taken for granted. Hotels painted in Day-Glo defiance announce themselves as both the gaudiest and ugliest structures in the metro. The glinting tiled roofs of Corinthian Gardens and Blue Ridge mansions flash by, prompting the perennial question: will every Filipino ever afford such a roof over his head? And then there are the billboardsโ€”Borgy Manotocโ€™s giant Swatch ad mug staring down, with impunity, at the brass statue of Our Lady of EDSA near Robinsons Galleria, as if commerce and devotion were locked in a silent duel.

Weirder thoughts sometimes ambush me. Once, unprovoked, I concluded that EDSAโ€™s traffic problem could be solved if those working in Makati and Pasay simply swapped homes with those commuting from Quezon City. A housing exchange as urban salvation. It makes perfect senseโ€”at least at 60 kilometers per hour above gridlock.

An MRT ride also induces a kind of disorientation akin to air travel. Working in Quezon City after a lifetime in Makati is its own culture shock. QC, home to media giants like ABS-CBN and GMA, feels more like an NGO and bureaucratic enclave, far removed from the glass-tower certainties I once knew. I am no longer sure which nerve center of the metro possesses more character; perhaps each is merely a mirror held up to a different national aspiration.

The speed of the train collapses distances that once required desert-caravan patience. Before the MRT, reaching Novaliches from Taft Avenue felt like an expedition. The long hours prepared you psychologically for difference. That lagโ€”those hours of mental recalibrationโ€”are now erased. Efficiency bridges the gap, but something indefinable is lost behind the triumph of punctuality.

The line was built during the administration of President Fidel V. Ramos under a build-operate-transfer scheme, a $655-million gamble on speed and structure. Thirteen stations punctuate 6.4 kilometers of EDSA, offering vantage points that vary in altitude and attitude: treetop-level, street-level, subterranean, mangy, billboard-choked. At roughly thirty minutes end to end and carrying hundreds of thousands daily, it is both infrastructure and metaphor.

Compared with LRT-1โ€”which slices through the intimate, decaying grandeur of old Manilaโ€”the MRT offers a more panoramic, less intimate survey of the New World we have assembled along EDSA. The LRT is visceral, earth-level, thick with prerecorded sales pitches of โ€œMura lang, piso isa!โ€ and elbow-to-elbow humanity. The MRT, by contrast, feels slightly more detached, even when rush hour hurls a tsunami of warm bodies your way.

For a maximum of fourteen pesos one way, you are granted a panorama of a grimy, topsy-turvy, strangely cosmopolitan metropolisโ€”capable of summoning from you the entire gamut of emotion at a fast clip. This slithering landmark does more than ferry commuters. From its rarefied vantage point, you cannot help but assess how life in the P.I. has unfolded since those four fateful days of February 1986โ€”the longest days this country has ever known.

Standing on a moving platform of steel and rubber, suspended above traffic and history, I can't help but feelโ€”despite everythingโ€”a flicker of pride. It is easy to forget it, but this is the street where we made bloodless, peaceful revolutions possible, not only in the Philippines but around the world.

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